When you say Turkey, sea and sun come to mind, while Trabzon offers the opposite: rain, mist and greenery covering every side. The city is on the Black Sea shore, and behind it are mountains and highland pastures that rise abruptly. Most of those who go from Baku come here to escape the summer heat. Three days are enough for the city and its near surroundings; a fourth day has to be given to a pasture.
The Sumela monastery and the cliffs of Trabzon
The Sumela monastery is roughly fifty kilometres from the city and stands as though stuck onto the face of the cliff. The building remains from the fourth century and, looking from the valley, it seems to a person not built but hung. It has reopened after restoration work, and the frescoes inside are the main reason to go.
Go there early in the morning, because at midday there are both more tourists and mist that rises and closes off the view. The road is narrow and winding, so if you are going in your own car be careful in the rain. After the entrance there are steps, and comfortable shoes are needed.
Uzungol and the highland pastures
Uzungol is a lake among the mountains roughly a hundred kilometres from the city and is Trabzon’s best-known postcard. Around it there are wooden houses, small restaurants and a walking path along the lake. At the weekend it gets crowded, so going on a weekday is better.
The real Black Sea, though, begins in the highland pastures. Hidirnebi and Cakirgol are close to the city, while Ayder is far but is visited for the meadows that stay under the cloud. In the summer months the air in the pastures is cool and warm clothing is needed at night. Taking the pasture and Sumela tours in advance is easier than looking for the road yourself.
The city itself and the food
The centre of Trabzon is compact. Starting from the main area called Meydan you can walk as far as Hagia Sophia, while from the Boztepe hill the whole city and the sea are visible. The Atatürk villa is a white wooden building and, together with its garden, is a half-hour stop.
In the food, first in line stands kuymak, a breakfast dish made from melted cheese and corn flour. The season for hamsi, that is, anchovy, falls in winter and it is cooked in dozens of ways. Akcaabat meatballs and Black Sea pide are on every menu. Because this is hazelnut country, most of the sweets have hazelnuts in them.
Read more: A Turkey travel guide: Istanbul, Antalya, Cappadocia, the Black Sea and the thermal resorts
Transport and budget in Trabzon
The airport is close to the city and you can reach the centre in twenty minutes. To the pastures and to Sumela, however, public transport is weak, so either a tour or a hire car becomes necessary. The city buses are cheap and cover the centre.
| Hotel | A night in the centre, roughly 35–70 euros |
| A wooden house in Uzungol | In season the price doubles |
| Lunch | 8–15 euros a head in a local place |
| The Sumela day | Half a day, entry ticket separately |
Choosing a hotel in the centre, close to Meydan, is the most comfortable option, because in the evening everywhere is within walking distance, and filtering hotels by their nearness to the centre makes this easier. There are seasonal direct flights from Baku, so check the flight options in the Black Sea direction in advance. Official information about the region is on Turkey’s tourism portal.
Season in Trabzon
June–September is the most suitable period, the weather is 22–28 degrees and the pastures stay open. This is the rainiest region of Turkey, so a rain jacket has to be taken even in summer. Winter passes mild but very damp, while the roads to the pastures can be closed by snow. In autumn the hazelnut harvest ends, the city quietens down and prices drop as well.
In short
Trabzon is not a seaside resort but a mountain and greenery destination, and it is an ideal choice for those escaping the summer heat. Go to Sumela in the morning, put Uzungol on a weekday, plan at least one night in a pasture, and be ready for rain. If you want to combine the Black Sea with several cities, you can look at the tour offers on the Black Sea route. For a route, fill in the application form.
Note: prices and road conditions change with the season, so check before travelling.
