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Cappadocia travel guide: the balloon, the fairy chimneys and the underground cities

Cappadocia travel guide: the balloon, the fairy chimneys and the underground cities

Cappadocia is the name of a plateau in the centre of Turkey formed from volcanic ash. Over millions of years wind and water have carved the soft rock, and the result is the conical rocks called fairy chimneys. People hollowed out the insides of those rocks and built houses, churches and whole underground cities. Three days are quite enough here and each day has its own rhythm.

The balloon flight and the morning plan in Cappadocia

The balloons rise before sunrise, because the morning air is the calmest time. They pick you up in front of the hotel at four or five o’clock and the flight lasts a little over an hour. From above the valleys look entirely different and dozens of balloons drift beside you.

Know one thing for certain: the flights are frequently cancelled because of wind and the decision is made that same morning. So do not put the balloon on the last day of the trip; keep at least two days in reserve. In case of cancellation the money is returned, but your time does not come back. If the flight looks expensive there is an alternative: going up early in the morning to the hill above Goreme and watching the balloons from below is also a striking sight.

The Goreme open-air museum in Cappadocia
The Goreme open-air museum. Photo: Bernard Gagnon, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0).

The open-air museum and the valleys

The Goreme open-air museum is on the UNESCO list and consists of churches hollowed into the rock. Part of the frescoes on the walls are more than a thousand years old and the colours are still there. A separate ticket is bought for the section called the Dark Church, but it is precisely there that the frescoes are best preserved.

Walking in the valleys is the best side of this place. The Pigeon valley is short and easy, the Red valley is the most famous spot for sunset, and the Ihlara valley is a full-day route. Let your shoes be comfortable, because the path is stone and sand. Taking a guided valley walk in advance is convenient in terms of not losing your direction.

The underground cities and village life

Derinkuyu and Kaymakli are underground cities descending eight storeys below ground. There are stables, kitchens, a church and air shafts here, and thousands of years ago people took shelter there in times of danger. If you are afraid of narrow places, bear in mind that the passages are gone through bent over.

Avanos is known for its pottery from red clay and in the workshops you can turn the wheel yourself. Uchisar castle is the highest point in the region and the whole plateau is visible from there. For dinner order testi kebab, which is cooked in a clay pot and the pot is broken at the table.

Read more: A Turkey travel guide: Istanbul, Antalya, Cappadocia, the Black Sea and the thermal resorts

How to reach Cappadocia and the budget

The region has two airports: Kayseri and Nevsehir. There are more flights to Kayseri and the minibus from there to Goreme takes roughly an hour; for those arriving on a night flight a private transfer booked in advance is more comfortable. From Baku you go via Istanbul and arriving in one day is possible.

Cave hotelA night roughly 50–120 euros, depending on the season
Balloon flight150–250 euros a head
Open-air museumEntry ticket, the Dark Church separately
Day tourThe Red and Green routes, a day each

If you know your dates in advance, following ticket prices in the Baku–Kayseri direction for a few weeks works out cheaper. Official information about the region is on Turkey’s tourism portal.

Season in Cappadocia

April–June and September–October are the best time, the air is cool, there is little wind and the balloon flights go ahead more often. In summer the midday heat passes thirty, so the walks have to be moved to the morning and the evening. In winter the plateau is covered in snow and the view is magnificent, but the chance of flights being cancelled rises. Prices change according to this same calendar.

In short

Cappadocia means three days, a cave hotel and getting up early in the morning, and filtering the cave hotels by price simplifies the choice considerably. Book the balloon for the first days, walk at least one of the valleys on foot, and go into the underground city bearing the narrow passages in mind. If you want to combine several regions of Turkey, you can look at the tour options for Turkey. For a route, fill in the application form.

Note: the price and schedule of the balloon flight depend on the weather, so check the confirmation on the eve of the trip.