Bratislava is one of the smallest capitals in Europe and perhaps the least appreciated. The city is on the bank of the Danube, only an hour from Vienna, which means seeing two capitals on one trip is possible. The old town is small and is walked in a day, while prices are lower than in the neighbouring countries. Below I have written how to build that day or two.
The old town and the castle
You enter the centre through the Michael gate, the only gateway remaining from the medieval fortifications. The narrow streets behind it lead to the main square, where the old town hall and a fountain stand. Sitting in the square and drinking a coffee is the most correct beginning to getting to know the city.
The castle is on top of the hill, with white walls and four corner towers, and from a distance it looks like an upturned table. Climbing up on foot takes twenty minutes and the Danube is visible from the path. From above, in clear weather, the Austrian border can also be made out.
The blue church and the bridge in Bratislava
The church of Saint Elisabeth is entirely blue and the inside is painted in the same tone. The building was put up a hundred years ago in the art nouveau style and is the most photographed place in the city. It is fifteen minutes on foot from the centre.
On the bridge over the Danube there is a viewing deck shaped like a saucer, and the panorama of the city opens up from there. A restaurant operates upstairs, but a ticket is sold for looking at the view alone as well. Go at sunset; when the lights come on the view changes completely.
Out of the city and the statues
The ruins of Devin castle are ten kilometres outside the city, on a rock where two rivers meet. The place is strong in historical terms, because for centuries it was a border point. In the spring and summer months you can get there by boat, which is more interesting than the bus. Booking the boat trip to Devin castle in advance settles the question of places at the weekend.
In the old town there is a bronze statue of a man looking out of a manhole, and it has become the city’s unofficial symbol. Other bronze figures are hidden nearby, and finding them turns into a walking game in itself. For those coming with children, this is a good programme.
How to reach Bratislava and the budget
There is no direct flight from Baku and the most practical route is through Vienna. The bus from Vienna airport to Bratislava takes roughly an hour and runs frequently through the day. The city has its own airport too, but the flights are few. For accommodation, the boutique hostel and cheap hotel options in the old town come out twice as cheap as Vienna.
| Hotel | A three-star night in the centre, roughly 60–100 euros |
| Halusky | The national dish, potato dough and sheep’s cheese |
| Lunch | 10–18 euros a head in a local restaurant |
| The Vienna bus | One hour, cheap and frequent |
Slovakia is in the euro zone and is part of Schengen, which means there is no border check between it and Vienna. For the flight, looking at the price of Baku–Vienna flights is the most logical beginning. The train and bus options can be compared in one search. Official information about the city is on visitbratislava.com.
Season in Bratislava
May–September is the most comfortable period, the weather is 20–27 degrees and the cafés on the Danube bank are working. In December a Christmas market is set up in the square and, together with mulled wine, this is the liveliest time in the city. January–March passes cold and quiet, while prices are at their lowest level. In autumn the excursions to the vineyards begin.
In short
Bratislava is a one- or two-day, cheap and comfortable destination, and it joins easily with Vienna on top of that. Climb up to the castle on foot, do not miss the blue church, go to the deck on the bridge at sunset, and be sure to taste the halusky. If you want to combine two capitals into one route, you can look at the tour offers for Central Europe. For a visa and a route, fill in the application form.
Note: prices and transport timetables change with the season, so check before travelling.
