Lisbon is built on seven hills, and your legs work that out on the first day. The city is also a city of light: the light off the Atlantic falls on the tiles on the walls and the streets shine with colour. Prices are below the other capitals of Western Europe. Three days for the city and one for Sintra — that is the right division. If you want to put Porto and Sintra into the route as well, look at tours of Portugal.
Lisbon in brief
| Country | Portugal; 550 thousand people |
| Visa | Schengen “C” visa |
| Currency | Euro; cards everywhere |
| Best time | March–June and September–October |
| Flight | From Baku via Istanbul or Europe |
| How many days | Four days, Sintra separately |
Alfama, Baixa and tram 28
Alfama is the city’s oldest quarter and the part that survived the 1755 earthquake. The streets are narrow and tangled, and a map helps little there. Above it stands Saint George’s castle, and from there the whole city and the river appear together.
The yellow tram number 28 runs through the narrow streets of Alfama and has become the city’s symbol. It has one problem: during the day finding a place on it is impossible, and the pickpockets work on that very tram. Get on at seven in the morning and the carriage is all but empty. Baixa, meanwhile, is the centre rebuilt in straight lines after the earthquake and is comfortable to walk.
Belem and the age of discovery
The Belem district is twenty minutes from the centre by tram. The Jeronimos monastery and the Belem tower are left from the age of maritime discovery and both are on the UNESCO list. The queue at the monastery is long, so buy the ticket online. The Monument to the Discoveries stands on the shore and you can go up it.
In that district there is a pastry shop working since 1837, and they bake the custard tart called pastel de nata there. The queue looks long but moves quickly. Taking the Belem tours and the monastery ticket together simplifies that day.
A day at Sintra
Sintra is forty minutes by suburban train and needs a full day. The Pena palace is known for its coloured walls, its ticket is timed and it sells out quickly in summer. The walk along the walls of the Moorish castle is worth it for the view. Quinta da Regaleira is an extraordinary estate with hidden wells and tunnels.
Do not plan more than two sites in one day, because waiting for the bus between them takes time. If you are travelling as a group, a transfer booked in advance works out cheaper and easier than the bus queue.
Read more: A Portugal travel guide: Lisbon, Sintra, Porto, the Douro valley, the Algarve and Madeira
Food and transport in Lisbon
Cod is the national dish and they say there are more than three hundred ways of cooking it. Sardines are grilled over charcoal in the streets in summer, especially during the June festivals. The Time Out Market gathers dozens of kitchens in one building and is a good option when choosing is hard.
The metro has four lines, while the funiculars work for climbing the hills. The Viva Viagem card is valid on all transport. The airport is very close to the centre, twenty minutes by metro. Choosing a hotel near a metro station really does matter because of the hills, so look at the options on the map. There is no direct flight from Baku, so compare the transit options on bilet.az.
Season and budget in Lisbon
March–June and September–October are the ideal months, with 18–26 degrees. In summer it climbs above 30, but the ocean wind softens it. Winter is mild, 10–16 degrees, but there is a lot of rain. The city can be walked all year round.
A three-star hotel in the centre is 90–140 euros, and a boutique hotel in Alfama 100–160. The Jeronimos monastery is 12 euros, the Pena palace 20, and a day of transport 7. Official tourism information is on the Visit Lisboa site.
A last word
Lisbon is a city that asks for comfortable shoes and an unplanned half day, and in return the hills give you the view. Get on tram 28 early in the morning, give Sintra a full day, and take a hotel near the metro. For a visa and a route, fill in the application form.
Note: the prices in this article are those at the time of publication and may change with the season.
