Chiang Mai is in the north of Thailand, among the mountains, and bears no resemblance to Bangkok. There is no traffic here, the air is cool, and the centre of the city is a square ringed by a water moat. Most people come here for two days and then change their ticket. Below I have written the three days and one trap.
The old town and the temples in Chiang Mai
The old town is ringed by a rectangular wall and a moat, and inside it there are more than thirty temples. Wat Chedi Luang is the most striking, with its half-collapsed giant stupa. Wat Phra Singh is the most decorated and shows the northern style best.
Entry to most of the temples is a symbolic amount and to some it is free. Several have a monk chat hour, where young monks wanting to practise their English answer your questions. The dress code is strict and shoulders and knees must be covered.
Doi Suthep and the mountains
Doi Suthep is the mountain above the city and the golden temple on its summit is the symbol of Chiang Mai. Going up takes forty minutes by car, and then there are more than three hundred steps; anyone who would rather not uses the funicular. Going up before the morning mist clears improves the view considerably.
For those who want to go further there is Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s highest point, with its waterfalls. The road is two hours and it takes all day. Up there the temperature is ten degrees lower than in the city, so take a light jacket.
The elephant sanctuaries and the right choice
There are dozens of elephant camps around Chiang Mai and they are not all the same. Stay away from places that offer elephant riding, because it is harmful to the animal and international organisations do not recommend it. At ethical sanctuaries the elephants are fed and observed, not ridden.
When choosing, look at whether the site offers riding; that is the simplest filter. There are half-day and full-day programmes, and the full day passes more calmly. Comparing sanctuary programmes by their reviews is more reliable than the agencies on the street.
Read more: A Thailand travel guide: Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Phuket, Krabi and the right route among the islands
Transport and budget in Chiang Mai
The city is small and the old part is walked entirely on foot. The red minibuses called songthaew work on fixed routes and are very cheap; you raise your hand and get in. The Grab app works too. The airport is only fifteen minutes from the centre, which is a rare thing in Thailand.
| Boutique hotel | 30–60 dollars a night |
| Hostel bed | 8–15 dollars |
| Market food | 2–4 dollars a portion |
| Cooking course | Half a day, market walk included |
There are night train and bus options from Bangkok; the train is cheap and comfortable, and comparing the train and bus timetable in advance makes finding a place easier in season. There is no direct flight; you come via Bangkok on a one-hour domestic flight, so check ticket prices in the Bangkok direction in advance. Official tourism information is on Thailand’s official tourism portal.
Season and the smoke months in Chiang Mai
November–February is the best time, the weather is 25–30 degrees and the nights are cool. In November the Yi Peng lantern festival is held and the city looks entirely different, while the hotels fill up months ahead. The most important warning concerns the period from the end of February to April: because of agricultural burning the air quality deteriorates sharply and the mountain view is lost behind the smoke. Anyone with asthma or a respiratory problem should not choose these months.
In one sentence
Chiang Mai is Thailand’s quiet and cheap face, and its northern cooking gives a reason of its own. Stay in the old town, go up Doi Suthep in the morning, filter the elephant sanctuary by whether it offers riding, and avoid the smoke months without fail. If you want to combine Thailand with several cities, you can look at the ready-made tour options. For a route and a visa, fill in the application form.
Note: festival dates and air quality change from year to year, so check again before travelling.
