Bahrain is the smallest and quietest country in the Gulf. Dubai’s glitter is not here. Instead there are five thousand years of history and the world’s oldest pearl market. The Formula 1 circuit and the causeway to Saudi Arabia are here too. From Baku it is three hours direct with Gulf Air, and the eVisa comes through in a few days. Bahrain works both as a weekend trip of its own and as a comfortable start to a Saudi and Umrah route. In this article I answer the questions of what to see, how to get around, what to eat and when to go.
Bahrain in brief
| Capital | Manama |
| Language | Arabic; English works everywhere |
| Currency | Bahraini dinar, 1 dinar ≈ 4.5 manats, one of the most expensive currencies in the world |
| Visa | Online eVisa, 3–5 days |
| Best time | November–March; summer 45 degrees |
| Flights | Baku–Manama direct, Gulf Air, 3 hours |
| Daily budget | 40–60 dinars at a mid-range level |
What to see in Bahrain?
Manama is a city with two faces. On one side stand the towers of the World Trade Centre with wind turbines turning between them. The financial harbour and the new districts on the bay are on that side too. On the other side is the old souq that starts at the Bab al-Bahrain gate, where the spice, gold and pearl shops stand in rows. In the souq the sellers do not rush you, which is a rare thing in the Gulf. On Muharraq island UNESCO’s «Pearling Path» route runs through the restored houses of the pearl divers; go there in the cool of the morning.
Qal’at al-Bahrain is a Portuguese fort with the remains of the Dilmun civilisation beneath it, and it is the country’s main historical monument. Everyone goes to the four-hundred-year-old Tree of Life standing alone in the middle of the desert, and everyone says «is that all?», but at sunset it is worth it. The Al Fateh mosque and the National Museum fit into a one-day city tour. In the Sakhir area the Formula 1 circuit offers tours and a racing experience all year, while the Al Areen desert park is for families with children.
Transport in Bahrain and the Saudi causeway
The country is small and it takes forty-five minutes by car from one end to the other. Public transport consists only of buses and is inconvenient for a tourist, so the main transport is taxis and Uber, and a ride across town is 2–4 dinars.
Car hire comes to 12–20 dinars a day. Fuel is ridiculously cheap, the roads are excellent, and they accept an Azerbaijani licence.
The King Fahd causeway runs twenty-five kilometres out to Saudi Arabia. Those with a Saudi eVisa cross by the causeway to Dammam and Al Khobar in an hour, which is to say Bahrain is a good-value gateway to a Saudi trip. The airport is on Muharraq island and a taxi to Manama takes fifteen minutes.
Gulf food: machboos, fish and coffee
The basis of the local cooking is machboos, chicken, lamb or fish served over spiced rice, a distant relative of our plov. The local fish called hamour is grilled, while safi fish is a festive dish.
At Manama’s fish market it is a local tradition to buy fish in the morning and have it cooked at the restaurant next door; be sure to try that.
Breakfast is balaleet, sweet vermicelli with an omelette, followed by halva, dates and Arabic coffee; every gathering starts exactly like that.
Manama’s Adliya and Block 338 quarter is the restaurant and café zone, where lunch is 5–8 dinars and dinner 12–20. Everything is halal. Indian and Filipino food is very widespread too, because half the population is foreign.
Read next: A Bahrain visa in 3–5 days: the online eVisa, the fees and the direct flight with Gulf Air
The season and the Formula 1 week
From November to March the weather is 20–27 degrees and ideal.
From June to September the temperature climbs to 40–45 degrees and the humidity rises, and life passes in air-conditioned places. In return the hotels drop to half price, which is to say that for someone who can take the heat this is the cheap option.
The Formula 1 Grand Prix is usually held in March or at the start of April. That week the hotels triple in price and the rooms sell out months ahead, so do not buy a ticket without checking the date. During Ramadan the restaurants are closed during the day and the city comes alive in the evenings. The events calendar and the Formula 1 dates are on the Visit Bahrain portal.
The Bahrain budget and tickets
Bahrain is cheaper than Dubai. A four-star hotel is 40–60 dinars and a five-star 80–120, and in summer that comes down to half.
The entry tickets are all but symbolic. Entry to the museums and the fort is 1–2 dinars and a tour of the Formula 1 circuit ten. A desert safari comes to 25–35 dinars, and taking the programme online works out cheaper than buying it from the hotel.
Excluding the flight, a three-day trip fits into 150–250 dinars per person. Cards work everywhere, and for the souq take a little cash in dinars. Gulf Air flies direct from Baku; air ticket prices to Manama rise at Novruz and in the winter holidays and are cheapest in summer. Bahrain is usually planned together with Saudi Arabia, and in Gulf countries tour packages the Manama and Umrah routes are joined by the causeway.
Frequently asked questions about Bahrain
How many days does Bahrain take?
The main sights are seen in two or three days. It is ideal as a weekend trip or as the start of a Saudi route.
How does it differ from Dubai?
Quieter, cheaper and more historic. Shopping and entertainment are in Dubai; history and local life are in Bahrain.
Is the dress code strict?
It is one of the most liberal countries in the Gulf, but in mosques and the souq shoulders and knees are expected to be covered. Beachwear is only free within the hotel grounds.
In closing
With a direct flight, an easy eVisa and a quiet Gulf experience, Bahrain is an ideal country for a short trip, and the causeway to Saudi Arabia turns it into part of a bigger route. The eVisa conditions are explained on the Bahrain page, and to build the Gulf route together, fill in the application form.
Note: the prices here are as of the publication date and can change with the season.
