Almaty is not the capital of Kazakhstan, but it remains the country’s real centre. The snow-covered Zailiysky Alatau mountains stand behind the city and are visible from the street; that view is Almaty’s calling card. There is a direct flight from Baku, no visa is required and prices are well below Europe’s. Below I have written a three-day route.
The city centre and Kok-Tobe
The Zenkov cathedral in Panfilov park was built of wood without using a single nail, and it came through the 1911 earthquake intact. The Green Bazaar nearby is the largest food market in the country, with horse meat, dried fruit and dairy products. Tasting is free and the sellers offer it.
The cable car takes you up Kok-Tobe hill, and the city appears in the palm of your hand. There is a small park and restaurants at the top. The pedestrian street known as Arbat is in the centre, with the Abai opera house and Republic Square close by.
Medeu, Shymbulak and Big Almaty Lake
Medeu is the highest-altitude skating rink in the world and is only twenty minutes from the city. From there a cable car climbs to the Shymbulak ski resort. It works for skiing in winter and mountain walking in summer, and the cable car is open all year.
Big Almaty Lake lies among the mountains, is turquoise in colour and is an hour from the city. Public transport does not go there — you need a car or a tour. The Charyn canyon is three hours away, is compared to the Grand Canyon and takes a full day. Taking these routes in advance settles the transport question.
Read more: A Kazakhstan travel guide: Almaty, Astana, the Charyn canyon, Shymbulak and 90 days visa-free
Transport and food in Almaty
The metro is a single line, but its stations are beautiful and it covers the centre. The buses run on an Onay card. Taxi apps are very cheap, and a ride across town comes to a few dollars. The airport is fifteen kilometres from the centre.
Beshbarmak is the national dish, cooked with horse or mutton. Lagman and manti are Central Asian classics. Kazakhstan is a Muslim country, so halal food is found everywhere. Lunch in a restaurant costs 8–15 dollars.
Season and prices in Almaty
May–June and September are the best months, with 20–28 degrees and the mountain routes open. July and August climb to 35, and going up the mountain is the way to cool off. December to March is the ski season and Shymbulak is working. In autumn the city turns yellow.
A three-star hotel is 40–80 dollars, and a boutique hotel in the centre 70–120. Choosing your hotel by the metro line pays off given how big the city is. A cable car ticket is a few dollars. Official tourism information is on the Kazakhstan Travel site.
In short
Almaty is one of those rare places that puts a city and a mountain twenty minutes apart, and it is cheap to reach from Baku. Go up Kok-Tobe, walk into the Green Bazaar, and give one day to the Charyn canyon or the mountain lake. For a visa and a route, fill in the application form.
Note: the prices in this article are those at the time of publication and may change with the exchange rate.
