Goa is on India’s west coast and bears no resemblance to the rest of the country. Because it stayed under Portuguese rule for four hundred years there are churches, wine and an entirely different rhythm here. The most important decision is the choice between the north and the south, because these are two different holidays. Below I have written about both and about the season trap.
North or south in Goa
North Goa means noise, markets and night life. Baga and Calangute are the most crowded beaches, while Anjuna and Vagator are a little freer. The beach shacks here turn into music venues in the evening.
South Goa is the complete opposite. Palolem, Agonda and Colva are wide, quiet and clean beaches, and after ten in the evening music is forbidden. If you are going with family or to rest, the south is almost always the right choice.
Old Goa and the Portuguese heritage
Old Goa was once a city larger even than Lisbon, and now only its churches remain. The body of Saint Francis Xavier is kept in the Bom Jesus basilica and it is on the UNESCO list. The Se cathedral beside it is among the largest churches in Asia.
The Fontainhas quarter in Panaji, with its coloured Portuguese houses, looks entirely like a European street. Walking the narrow streets takes an hour, and the morning light is the best for photographers. It makes sense to give this a day after a beach day.
The Dudhsagar falls and the markets
Dudhsagar is among India’s highest waterfalls and is on the state’s eastern border. You go there only by permitted jeep; it is not possible in your own car. It flows most strongly after the monsoon and weakens considerably in the dry months.
The weekly market in Anjuna has been running for decades, while the Saturday night market is more about music and food. Prices are set for haggling, and halving the first figure quoted and starting from there is normal. Comparing hotels by beach and district settles the distance between the market and the beach in advance.
Transport and budget in Goa
The state has two airports, one in the centre and the newer one in the north. If you are going south the old airport is closer; if you are going north, the new one. Inside the state public transport is weak and the main options are a scooter and a taxi. An international licence is needed for a scooter and police checks are normal.
| Beach shack | 15–35 dollars a night |
| Three-star hotel | 30–70 dollars |
| Scooter hire | By the day, a licence is required |
| Between north and south | About two hours |
For those staying a long time the guest houses near the beach are the most economical option, and looking at hostel and guest house choices halves the budget. There is no direct flight; you go via Dubai, Doha and Delhi, so compare ticket options in the Goa direction with a route via Mumbai. Official tourism information is on India’s national tourism site.
Season in Goa
November–February is the best time, the weather is 28–32 degrees and the sea is calm. The end of December is the most expensive and most crowded period. March–May is hot and humid, but prices come down. The most important warning is for June–September: during the monsoon most of the beach shacks are dismantled, swimming becomes dangerous and many restaurants close, so when you see a cheap ticket, remember the reason.
Conclusion
Goa is the most comfortable entry to India, on the condition that you choose the right beach and the right month. For quiet go south, for night life go north, give a day to Old Goa, and if you pick the monsoon, pick it knowingly. If you want to combine India with several destinations, you can look at the ready-made tour options. For a route and a visa, fill in the application form.
Note: the beach shacks are put up seasonally, so confirm that they are open before booking.
