Dushanbe is the capital of Tajikistan and one of the least visited cities in Central Asia. The city is new, with wide avenues and enormous buildings, and there is almost no historical monument. Most of those who come here are preparing for the Pamir Highway or the Fann mountains. Below I have written about both the city and the things to do before heading into the mountains.
The centre and the museums in Dushanbe
Rudaki avenue cuts the city from end to end and all the main buildings are on it. The Ismoil Somoni monument stands in the centre with its golden crown and is the city’s best-known sight. The park beside it fills with families in the evening.
The National Museum is large and its most valuable exhibit is a thirteen-metre reclining Buddha; such examples are few in Central Asia. The city’s flagpole was for a long time counted among the tallest in the world. Walking the city in one day is enough.
Hisor fortress and the Varzob gorge
Hisor fortress is thirty kilometres from the city and is known for its restored gateway. Beside it there are two old madrasas, one of which is now a museum. Half a day is enough and it is easily reached by taxi.
The Varzob gorge stretches northwards and brings you into mountain air within half an hour of the city. Along the road there are teahouses over the river, and in summer locals spend the weekend there. Further up, the Seven Lakes route begins.
The Pamir Highway and the GBAO permit
The Pamir Highway is one of the highest road routes in the world and starts from Dushanbe. But a document separate from the visa is required: the GBAO permit for Gorno-Badakhshan. Those who do not know this are turned back before reaching Khorog.
The permit is obtained in Dushanbe from the migration service, takes one to three working days and the fee is around twenty dollars. Travel agencies can arrange it in advance. Because the road on this route is long and difficult, a car with a driver is practically compulsory, and booking a transfer in advance settles the price and the condition of the vehicle beforehand.
Transport and budget in Dushanbe
Citizens of Azerbaijan go to Tajikistan visa-free and can stay up to ninety days. Within the city route minibuses and taxis work and prices are low. The airport is only fifteen minutes from the centre. There are cash machines, but before heading into the mountains you have to take cash somoni, because cards are not accepted on the road.
| Three-star hotel | 35–70 dollars a night |
| Guest house | 15–30 dollars |
| GBAO permit | About 20 dollars, 1–3 working days |
| Visa | Not required, 90 days |
Staying close to Rudaki avenue in the city puts everything within walking distance, so choose hotels by nearness to the centre. There are direct flights from Baku, so compare ticket prices in the Dushanbe direction with the option via Tashkent. Official information is on the Tajikistan Tourism Committee site.
Season in Dushanbe
April–June and September–October are the best months, with the weather in the city at 20–28 degrees. In July–August the temperature passes forty, but in the mountains it is cool at the same time, which means summer is the most suitable season for the Pamirs. The Pamir Highway becomes difficult because of snow from the end of October until May and some passes close. Winter in the city is quiet and cheap.
In one sentence
Dushanbe itself is a one-day city, but it is the start of the most magnificent mountain route in Central Asia. Give a day to the city and half a day to Hisor, get the GBAO permit without fail before heading into the mountains, and take cash in advance. If you want to build the Pamir route with a ready-made programme, you can look at the tour options. For a route, fill in the application form.
Note: the rules and fee for the GBAO permit may change, so check from an official source before travelling.
